You did just fine! What you'll need is a jack that can handle the tongue weight of the trailer, not its entire weight.
A trailers tongue weight is typically 10-15% of its total weight, so in your case the highest capacity you'll really need is about 350 lbs. That being said, choosing a trailer jack is one instance where you'll want to go for the overkill as far as capacity goes. A higher rated jack will be more heavily constructed and because of the reserve capacity it won't need to work... view full answer...
I was able to find that your 2000 Viking 2485st pop-up camper is 23 feet 10 inches long by 7 foot 1 inch wide. We have a couple options for your trailer. You can use the SportRack Pop-Up Camper Roof Rack - Square Crossbars - Steel # SR1020 or the Swagman Roamer LT Roof Rack for Pop-Up Campers and Camper Shells - Steel - 7' Long - 150 lbs # S80510.
Another option is to mount tracks for the adjustable sliding crossbars to give you more fit options. For this I recommend the Rhino-Rack Roof... view full answer...
I would be happy to recommend the correct replacement wiring for your 2006 Viking Pop Up Camper.
If your trailer uses a 4-way flat connector I recommend the Wesbar 4-Pole Flat Connector w/ Jacketed Cable - Trailer End - 8' Long # W787268 due to the jacket which will help to protect the wiring from the elements. Using heat shrink butt connectors # DW05744-5 will give you a nice weather tight connection.
If your trailer uses a 7-way connector I recommend the etrailer Trailer Wiring 7-Way... view full answer...
All of the wires of the Hopkins 6-pole part # 37995 are 18 gauge. I would agree with you though that the ground circuit, brake output, and 12 volt accessory circuit should be a heavier gauge like 12. That's part of why I don't recommend this as a great solution for trailer wiring.
Instead I would replace the square connector on the trailer with a standard 7-way like the part # A10-7W6 which comes with appropriately rated wiring for circuits. view full answer...
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